If you would like to contribute a new model to this site, follow these steps:

1. The Cameras
You need two identical digital SLR cameras: the same brand, the same make, the same lenses.
For each camera, you need these features:
- A remote, wireless, or infrared shutter activation feature. You need something that triggers both
  cameras simultaneously without the need to touch any camera. We used an infrared remote control.
- A fixed auto-focusing normal (50mm) lens. This guarantees both cameras have the same optics.
- A tripod mounting screw hole in-line with the centerline of the camera lens. This reduces the
  cost of the mount (see below) and simplifies the task of aligning the cameras.
- The bottom edge of the lens should be nearly aligned with the bottom of the camera.
  Do not use a camera that looks like the Canon EOS-1Ds or Nikon D3.
- A camera with 5, 6, or 8 megapixels is just fine. We used two old 5 megapixel cameras.
  If using an 8+ megapixel camera, use a medium sized image with the fine quality setting.
  The camera alignments, lens quality, and shooting conditions are much more important than a large number
  of megapixels. For example, the 6 megapixel Nikon D40 with its ML-L3 remote control has all the required
  features in a cost effective package. The Canon EOS 350D is another great example.
- Our 3D photos have about 4.6 megapixels and an average size of about 450,000 bytes.
  Do not exceed these large values - it just wastes bandwidth.

Some of the popular cameras featured on Digital Photography Review are suitable.

2. The Mount
You need a device to hold the two cameras together - bottom against bottom.
We recommend the Fixed - Twin Vertical Mount from Jasper Engineering.
If your tripod mounting screw hole is not in-line with the centerline of the camera lens,
then you need an Adjustable - Twin Vertical Mount.

3. The Eyes
Mount the cameras and adjust so that both are shooting EXACTLY THE SAME SCENE except for a horizontal
shift of 66mm (or as close to 66mm as possible). The camera lenses must be parallel to each other.
Accuracy is very important.

4. The Tripod
We recommend a good tripod. Once you start shooting, you will be glad to have one.

5. The Model
The easiest way to find a model is with One Model Place.

6. Shooting Location
We recommend a photography studio. This solves several problems, including:
- Your model will feel better working in a professional environment.
- You can use the equipment: floods, umbrellas, diffusers, backdrops, etc.
- You can use the advice of a professional photographer.

7. Shoot Preparation
If you are new to photography, you might want to look at these books to get some rough ideas:
- Lighting the Nude: Top Photography Professionals Share Their Secrets (Paperback)
- Lighting for Nude Photography, Revised Edition (Paperback)

Before the model arrives, do as much as possible to ensure a successful shoot:
- Setup the scene and lighting. The easiest approach is to use soft diffuse light.
- Make sure batteries are fully charged.
- Turn off digital zoom and date imprinting.
- Use auto-focus.
- Disable the flash.
- Set the ISO speed to 200.
- Adjust your white balance.
- Make sure all settings on cameras are identical.
- Perform tests to make sure skin color and lighting levels are correct.
- Print the Model Release Form and the Model Profile Form.

8. The Shoot
Before you begin, do the paperwork:
- Fill the Model Release Form
- Fill the Model Profile Form

Once the paperwork is complete,
have the model hold her photo ID closely by her face. The same ID used for the Model Release Form.
Now take a regular very close-up photograph of the model's face and her photo ID. This establishes a
link between the nude model and the Model Release Form. The printing on the ID must be readable in
the photo. This photo is later referred to as the "Model Face ID Link" photo.

Now take the nude photographs using the twin cameras :-)

Try to limit the depth of field as much as possible. The depth of field is the distance between the
closest object and the farthest object. First, the cameras cannot focus on close and far away objects.
Second, when the images are later combined, images with a large depth of field will cause problems.

9. Post Processing
- Copy all photos to your computer and make a backup just in case.
  Copy into separate folders, one for the left eye and one for the right.
- Depending on your camera, you might need to rotate some or all of your images.
  You can use the Windows Picture and Fax Viewer or any image editing software.
- Delete all non-perfect photos. Depending on your shoot, it could be a significant percent.
- Now delete those photos that do not have a match in the other eye.
  Scanning both folders using the Windows Picture and Fax Viewer is an easy way.
- The photos in the left and right folders should now all match when sorted by name (number).
  They will not match by filename number since during the shoot both cameras do not always fire.
- Rename the photos using this naming scheme:
  Photo###L.jpg for the Left eye and
  Photo###R.jpg for the Right eye.
  Where ### starts at 000 and increases by one for each photo.
- At this point, any two photos having the same sequence number are matches.
- Move all of the photos into a folder named "jpg".
- Create a folder named "stereo".
- Time to combine the Left and Right photos into single 3D stereo photos.
- You need to install the StereoPhoto Maker.
- Run the StereoPhoto Maker (stphmkre.exe).

- Click on the "Open Left and Right Image" button (second from left).
- Select Photo000L.jpg and Photo000R.jpg.
- Click on the "Color Anaglyph" button (20th from left) using the "color (red/cyan)" option.
- Wearing the 3D glasses, use the up, down, left, right arrow keys to adjust the image.
- When you are satisfied with the result, click on the "Save Stereo Image" button (5th from left).
- Adjust the "Image Quality" slider to get the desired file size, about 400,000 bytes.
- Select the "stereo" folder and keep the default filename (Photo000.jpg).
- Click the "Save" button.

- Repeat the previous 8 steps for the next photo pair until all photos are done.

Optionally, before saving you can add text to the bottom-right corner of the image. Text that identifies
who you are, something like your name or nickname or handle. Use the "Add Text" feature (Ctrl-T).
Here are some recommended settings:
- Set the X-offset = 20 pixels
- Set the Y-offset = 5 pixels
- Unselect the "Use shadow" check-box
- Click the FONT button and set to Arial, Bold, 18

If you want to delete a photo at this stage because the results are not good, then just delete the two
matching photos from the "jpg" folder. Do not re-sequence the photos; gaps in the numbers are okay.

10. Packaging
Create a zip file called model-1.zip and add the following:
- the "jpg" folder (the folder and its contents)
- the "stereo" folder (the folder and its contents)
- the scanned image of the completed Model Release Form (Model-Release-Form.jpg)
- the scanned image of the completed Model Profile Form (Model-Profile-Form.jpg)
- the Model Face ID Link photo (Model-Face-ID-Link.jpg)

If you want to upload more than one model, increase the zip file sequence (model-2.zip, ...).

Copy the model-1.zip file onto an FTP server or an online storage solution (MediaMax, Omnidrive, etc.).

11. E-mail Us
Send us an e-mail with subject "MODEL UPLOAD" indicating the location of your model-1.zip file.
If everything is okay, we will post your photos within 10 days of receiving your e-mail.
We reserve the right to reject your photos for any reason (we will advise why).

Please note: we will add "(c) 2008 Saturn Six Media Inc., All Rights Reserved"
to the bottom-left corner of each photo before posting.